When Union Wine Co. came out with its Underwood pinot noir in a can in 2014, a groan could be heard from France and California.

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True, Oregon wineries have been challenging snobby wine presumptions for years, but this was the ultimate oddity. Underwood canned wines, which now include a rosé and a pinot gris, are approachable and ready-to-travel. Is it a brilliant invention for the outdoorsy Oregon oenophile, or does it mark a hipster demise of otherwise respectable wines? Pop the tab and decide for yourself.